Gretchen Hirsch’s new indie pattern line Charm Patterns by Gertie has launched! I was a pattern tester for her Lamour Dress back in June and now I can finally post about it! The Lamour Dress is a Shaheen inspired fit and flare dress with a 3/4 circle skirt and several wearing options for the straps. The best part is that it’s cup sized up to DD and it actually fits your boobs! I tried making Butterick 6019, which goes up to a D cup and getting the bodice to fit was a nightmare. The sizing on this pattern is so much better!
I really love this dress! I’m wearing it with a crinoline so the skirt has more poof than if you go without!
Since it’s a Gertie pattern it’s got a lot of vintage details like spiral steel boning and a waist stay. This isn’t a pattern for a new sewist, but if you’ve made a dress or two you can definitely make this dress. The pattern has excellent instructions! The most tedious part of making the dress was cutting out all the fabric. The bodice has 3 layers (outer fabric, under lining, lining) and lots of bodice pieces! But once that’s done it’s actually pretty quick to make the dress. Gertie’s method for doing a narrow hem makes the usually painful task of hemming a circle skirt relatively quick and easy!
For my fabric I used this anchor embroidered checked gingham taffeta that I bought in Joann eons ago! it’s perfect for this dress! The dress is lined with a red cotton and underlined with muslin. My wedges were meant for this outfit! They have little sailboats and anchors on them. 🙂
Gretchen ended up making only one change to the final pattern – changing the neckline on the larger cup sizes to be a little lower. I liked the neckline as it is as my longline bra has very full coverage cups. So something to be aware of if you make this pattern.
So what do you think? Is this pattern going on your wish list? Gertie also has the peasant style Rita top in her Charm Patterns line! I bought this pattern on Kickstarter and I’m eager to make that too.
Spring is finally emerging in Portland so I immediately need to make something summery! This dress is the spring 2017 pattern from Gretchen Hirsch (Butterick 6453) and she’s currently doing a sew-a-long for it.
I bought 4 yards of Cotton + Steel 1″ Checkers gingham in aqua to make it originally. But then I decided I wanted to make it in View B first and I dug out this neat brocade type fabric I got from Joann’s ages ago.
I cut out my standard Big 4 size (18) and got to doing my flat pattern adjustments before cutting it out. It’s a pretty straightforward sew with the addition of the lapped zipper. I met Gretchen at Modern Domestic last month and she said she prefers doing lapped zippers because they are stronger than an invisible zipper and you don’t need an exact color match.
Flat Pattern adjustments to the front pieces
- 3″ FBA
- Remove 1/2″ from princess seam under bust
- 3/4″ broad back adjustment
- Raised armholes 1″ (for bra coverage)
- Added 1/4″ to strap width (to 5/8″)
- Removed 2″ from bottom before hemming
- 1″ full abdomen adjustment
- Shorten bodice by 1″
- Move rear strap extensions in toward center
Butterick has just published their new patterns for Summer 2015. It includes two Retro Butterick dresses and one vintage inspired Patterns by Gertie top. Let’s take a look.
The illustration for this dress makes it look pretty cool and I appreciate them trying to recreate the same look for the sample garment.
But this dress just looks sloppy. Maybe it was poor fabric choice and the lack of a crinoline, but I find it very disappointing. The free edges of the overdress are bumpy when they should be crisp. Very meh.
My thought about the lack of a crinoline is that they are trying to make the dress look like the technical drawings. But maybe they should just include a crinoline pattern.
I don’t understand why pattern companies keep reproducing vintage apron dress patterns. I’m just not a fan. I actually love the front of this dress – the sweetheart neckline and the skirt yoke are totally cute. But the back is just unnecessary to me. Check out how adorable this illustration is!
Then look at the sample dress. The best I can say is that at least this one doesn’t look sloppy!
Here’s the technical drawings for 6212.
This pattern is for a vintage inspired top in Patterns by Gertie line. I might actually buy this one but I don’t quite understand the boob-dana tie On my adult sized chest this would look ridiculous. I like view B though! View A is actually cute minus the tie.
Butterick has just released their new patterns for Fall 2014. Let’s take a look!
Gertie has 2 new patterns. I like the back detail of 6094, but probably not with the full skirt. Crinolines are not my thing.
The wrapped jacket in Butterick 6105 is pretty but looks a little too costumey for me.
Butterick 6088 looks like a poor imitation of the OOP McCall’s 6278. Theoretically it should be slimming but the color blocking at the neckline and across the bust just looks strange.
The pleating and top stitching look really interesting on Butterick 6089, but overall it looks a little matronly. I’d be interested to see one of these in the wild and find out if a better fit would make it look more contemporary. The sleeveless version has potential.
Oh, I love when they sew up samples in fabrics that totally obscure the design features! Butterick 6090 actually has a very unique shawl collar that is a nice change from your standard shirtwaist dress but you’d never know from this photo! I like the skirt which I’m hoping is pleated and not gathered, but whoa..that’s a lot of buttons!
Butterick decided to head to Downton Abbey for their Retro Butterick releases (6018 & 6093), which are both interesting but definitely costumes. It’s a little disappointing because usually the Retro patterns are very wearable and with the fall release these seem like they are destined for Halloween costumes.
There are a few more patterns but nothing that really caught my eye. Overall I was rather underwhelmed, with just 2 or 3 patterns that I am somewhat interested in.
I really liked several of the new Butterick Patterns.
Butterick 6019 – This is a Patterns by Gertie (Gretchen Hirsch) design. She was inspired by Alfred Shaheen’s 1950’s designs and on her blog you can see some photos of Shaheen’s dresses. I’m going on a family trip to Hawaii later this year and this might be a fun dress to make.
Butterick 6020 – What I like most about this ivy + blu shirtwaist dress is the the stitched pleating on the waistline. I like full skirts but I don’t like the bulk created by gathered skirts.
Butterick 6014 – Like the previous pattern, I dig the pleating around the waistline. The pleated asymmetric peplum is also a nice change, and since its a knit dress it looks easy to wear and comfy.
Butterick 6010 – Because who doesn’t need a strapless romper/jumpsuit???