Tag Archives: blue

Visby Striped Raglan Top

Itch to Stitch’s latest pattern is the Visby top. This is a super versatile pattern that has options for a quick-to-make raglan top, a henley, or a hooded henley.  Plus it’s on sale for launch week! As a pattern tester for Visby, I made View B the raglan top.

I have had this striped double knit fabric from Hart’s Fabric in my stash since the fall, but I hadn’t found the right project for it until Visby! This denim-y blue fabric has wide stripes one side and fine stripes on the other that are also toned due to the large stripes. So it was perfect to make a raglan top! I used the fine striped side for the body and neckline and the wide striped side for the sleeves and cuffs.

With just 4 pattern pieces, View B is a quick make. I think it was about 3 hours from when I clicked print to when I finished the hem. A few notes on this pattern… First check the sleeve length. It’s intentionally pretty long. I had limited fabric and I took about 4″ out of the sleeve length to fit it on my fabric and they hit me just above my wrists. I like raglans with 3/4 sleeves so I will mostly wear this with the sleeves pushed up. The body is also a bit longer than you might expect. I like the length though!  I really like the deep cuffs on this too.

I definitely think, for me, this is a superior pattern to the Hey June Lane Raglan. The poor grading on the larger sizes of the Lane result in a ridiculously big neckline. It practically falls off my shoulders! While I had thought about fixing it, I think I’ll just stick with making Visbys.

Once I find the right fabric, I’m definitely going to make the henley version as I love henley!  Someone also mentioned that this would be a great rashguard too! I could also see this in a technical fabric as layering piece for hiking or snowboarding. I love patterns with many uses.

Kalle Crop Top

Closet Case Patterns has just released their new Spring pattern – Kalle Shirt + Shirtdress which means I can post my tester version! Yay!  This pattern started off life as a fabulous white linen shirt dress that Heather posted on Instagram last Summer. Besides the shirtdress, the Kalle pattern includes a tunic and a crop top.

I made a crop top for my tester version. This is definitely outside of my comfort zone in terms of wardrobe, but I had just enough Kaufman Union chambray leftover from another project to make one so I went for it. Side Note: did you notice that the sample for the tunic version is the same fabric??

This version has a covered button placket, which I’ve never sewn before but it went to together quick and easy! I originally though to wear this with a fuller skirt or high waisted pants but I didn’t like how it looked with either! Luckily I tried it with one of my Magic Pencil skirts and loved the look. I think I also need to make a pair of high waisted shorts to try this with.

Heather let me know that she made two changes to the final pattern based on tester feedback:
– Reduced neckline size by about 2″. The collar now sits much closer to the neck.
– Made sleeve wider on upper sizes. (I’m glad this was done as you can see the sleeves are a little tight on me)

I can’t wait for my new pattern to arrive. I’ve got some black and white buffalo check shirting that’s been waiting to be made into a tunic! You can order the pattern here in paper or pdf or pick it up at your local retailer.

 

Note: As a pattern tester I receive a free copy of this pattern.

 

Blue & White Retro Sundress

Spring is finally emerging in Portland so I immediately need to make something summery! This dress is the spring 2017 pattern from Gretchen Hirsch (Butterick 6453) and she’s currently doing a sew-a-long for it.

I bought 4 yards of Cotton + Steel 1″ Checkers gingham in aqua to make it originally. But then I decided I wanted to make it in View B first and I dug out this neat brocade type fabric I got from Joann’s ages ago.

I cut out my standard Big 4 size (18) and got to doing my flat pattern adjustments before cutting it out. It’s a pretty straightforward sew with the addition of the lapped zipper.  I met Gretchen at Modern Domestic last month and she said she prefers doing lapped zippers because they are stronger than an invisible zipper and you don’t need an exact color match.

Flat Pattern adjustments to the front pieces

Modifications:

  • 3″ FBA
  • Remove 1/2″ from princess seam under bust
  • 3/4″ broad back adjustment
  • Raised armholes 1″ (for bra coverage)
  • Added 1/4″ to strap width (to 5/8″)
  • Removed 2″ from bottom before hemming
  • 1″ full abdomen adjustment

Future Adjustments:

  • Shorten bodice by 1″
  • Move rear strap extensions in toward center


Cat Dream Archer

I’ve been wanting to make an Archer for awhile, but I’ve realized that I really hate pdf patterns. They are a pain to put together and store. I was recently on Grainline Studio’s site and I noticed she had a preorder for a paper Archer pattern. Woohoo!

Around the same time MissCrayolaCreepy posted about the Cat Lady Sewing Challenge.  So it seemed like a good time to sew a cat-shirt! There are a lot of cute/kitschy cat prints out there, but I’ve realized I rarely actually wear clothing I make with that sort of print. Then I came across the Cat Dream fabric from Lizzy House, which is still pretty cute but in my eyes a little more sophisticated and wearable.

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So one of the big reasons I wanted to make a shirt is that I’ve never owned a button down shirt that didn’t gap around the bust. Now that I’m an FBA-pro I wanted to try my hand at getting a really well fitting shirt. I did all my pattern adjustments using the Palmer Pletsch method, which lead to a 1″ FBA. With the print on this fabric you can barely see the darts. But look…I can raise my arms and no button gap! Hallelujah!!

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The rear view is pretty good too! I made no modifications. On big 4 sometime I do 3/4″ broad back adjustment.

IMG_8503 The one thing I’m not too sure about is the shoulder width. Where is a shirt like this supposed to hit you? I have a feeling it might be a smidge to wide in the shoulders.

My only outstanding fitting issue is the sleeves. The upper arm fits fine, but the lower cuff is ridiculously wide. I didn’t check this until after I sewed the cuff on and at the point I wasn’t changing it. So I ended up sewing my cuff buttons almost 2″ over from the button marking! The sleeves are also about 2″ too long so I will make both the length and width adjustments on my next version.

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None of my cat shirt + cat photos came out great, but I had to include at least one with a kitty! Here’s my little monkey named Magi. I also have a black cat names Cleo. I couldn’t find my camera remote, so I had 10 seconds to hit the shutter, grab a cat, and get in the shot. So apologies that we both look a little weird!