Tag Archives: pattern testing

I pattern tested the latest from Itch to Stitch the Sequoia Shorts and Pants. These were designed with hiking in mind which is definitely something I need in my wardrobe! I went with making the shorts, which meant I had to shave my legs for the first time in a loooong time but it was well worth it!

You can’t see it but the waistband is partially ribbing with elastic in the middle which is comfortable but secure with no need for a belt. There’s not even belt loops in the pattern! I made a muslin before making these in cotton twill from Joann. I’m glad I did because I desperately needed a fully tummy adjustment. Looking at these pics I should have done a little more in my adjustment but they feel pretty good. I also straightened out the legs on shorts.

The pants version has cargo pockets and roll up straps too. I’m hoping this fabric will stretch a little with wear as they are a smidge too tight and kind of stiff. If I make again I will probably opt for a stretch fabric, but overall this is a great pattern! I love all the pockets.

This pattern is 20% off for one week (until 1/31/18) so grab it for less during the launch sale at https://itch-to-stitch.com/product/sequoia-cargos-shorts-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/. No coupon needed.

Kalle Crop Top

posted by lorene

on 04.17.2017

Closet Case Patterns has just released their new Spring pattern – Kalle Shirt + Shirtdress which means I can post my tester version! Yay! This pattern started off life as a fabulous white linen shirt dress that Heather posted on Instagram last Summer. Besides the shirtdress, the Kalle pattern includes a tunic and a crop top.

I made a crop top for my tester version. This is definitely outside of my comfort zone in terms of wardrobe, but I had just enough Kaufman Union chambray leftover from another project to make one so I went for it. Side Note: did you notice that the sample for the tunic version is the same fabric??

This version has a covered button placket, which I’ve never sewn before but it went to together quick and easy! I originally though to wear this with a fuller skirt or high waisted pants but I didn’t like how it looked with either! Luckily I tried it with one of my Magic Pencil skirts and loved the look. I think I also need to make a pair of high waisted shorts to try this with.

Heather let me know that she made two changes to the final pattern based on tester feedback:
– Reduced neckline size by about 2″. The collar now sits much closer to the neck.
– Made sleeve wider on upper sizes. (I’m glad this was done as you can see the sleeves are a little tight on me)

I can’t wait for my new pattern to arrive. I’ve got some black and white buffalo check shirting that’s been waiting to be made into a tunic! You can order the pattern here in paper or pdf or pick it up at your local retailer.

Note: As a pattern tester I receive a free copy of this pattern.

Kelly Anorak

posted by lorene

on 10.06.2016

It’s finally Fall in Portland! When I left for a business trip to Texas last week it was still warm and sunny and when I got back it was cool and rainy! At least I can finally wear my Kelly Anorak! This is the latest pattern from Closet Case Files and I was a pattern tester. So my version may have a few differences from the final pattern.

This was my first time sewing a jacket and Heather made it easy! Definitely having made button down shirts before like a Grainline Archer will help. The hardest part was probably figuring out the plackets and the zippers. I was in hurry to get this done so I didn’t pay as much attention as I should have and ended up ripping things out a few times. Oopsie. Luckily this a nice sturdy fabric!

Speaking of which, I got this Organic Cotton Ripstop from Fabric.com. It was $8/yd and its’ 60″ so very economical for a project where you need a bit of fabric. It was lovely to work with too! I decided to go for some red accents so I used red snaps from Snap Source, which I got at Mill End Store. I also got a red zipper and cord, but red grommets are hard to find! So I bought silver grommets and painted them with nail polish. We’ll see how well they hold up!

I made one deviation from that pattern and that was to line my hood. I don’t mind the interior being unlined, but I wanted my hood seams to be covered. This was pretty easy to do using the hood pattern and the hood facing to draw a new hood lining piece.

The pattern instructions call for a bit of hand sewing but I am far too lazy for that. So I did a lot of stitch in the ditch sewing

The biggest issue I had with the pattern is that the placement of the drawstring is too high for me. If you are bigger busted, you may run into this too! Since I had put the grommet in before discovering this I had a big whole to cover up. I put some iron on interfacing from the back and then I sewed on a rectangle to cover the hole. I made it bigger so it looked more intentional. Hopefully no one guesses why that’s there!

I love the details on this jacket like the back vent and the felled seams. I did mine by serging and topstitching.

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans

posted by lorene

on 04.25.2016

Closet Case Files has just launched the Morgan Boyfriend Jean pattern so now I can finally talk about them! I was a pattern tester and since this pattern went through three rounds of testing I have a lot to say! These photos are of the first pair that I made, which was the second round of testing. I was on a deadline to finish them, so instead of using a contrasting thread for the topstitching I just used the same thread as I was using for the seaming. The result is a rather fancy looking boyfriend jean, which I really like! It’s fun to have something other than skinnies to wear going out and the rolled up legs work well with heels.

As in almost every pair of pants I make, the legs are huge because they are graded up with the rest of the pattern and I have skinny legs. So I slimmed down the legs quite a bit from the hip down. I think as you get into the larger sizes you need a narrower leg otherwise they look baggy. I also added an inch to the rise which I almost always do for pants to accommodate my curvy bum.

I did make a quickie pair of the final version that was basted together and some day I will take them apart and sew up them up properly with top stitching! I used a plain blue denim from Joann that will require a bit of distressing so they don’t look like dad jeans instead of boyfriend jeans.

If you’ve made the Ginger jeans then assembly will be quite familiar to you! The only big change here is the button fly and to be honest I will probably just do a zipper in any future pairs I like. I find button flys rather annoying and I’d rather insert a zipper than have to do 3 extra button holes. 🙂

I bought this fabric on Amazon – it’s 12-Ounce Indigo Pure Denim Fabric, 2 Yards by 68-Inch Wide, by Kaltex America. It’s made by a Mexican denim mill and it’s a nice heavy weight. It’s pretty dark. I got it when it was under $22 but now it’s nearly $30.