Fit for Real People – First Class

Last night was my first Fit For Real People class and I’m very excited about it.  If you’ve never heard about Fit for Real People, it’s a pattern fitting method designed by Palmer Plestsch that uses tissue fitting. There’s a good book on it and they offer classes and workshops. I am lucky enough to live in the city that is home to the Palmer Pletsch Sewing School – Portland!

book-fitrealpeople-2ndEdPalmer Pletsch does a 4 day workshop to teach their fitting technique but it’s during the week and costs $700. Ouch! However people do come from all around the country and the work to take this class so it must be good.  While browsing around I found they offer a workshop for locals that’s only $105! It’s a 4 week class that meets for 3 hours each week but covers the same topics as the workshop.

The Palmer Pletsch Sewing School is located in fabric mecca, aka Fabric Depot. There’s are large classroom and our class had 8 women. Most of the beginning of the class was spent discussing pattern sizing and the history of patterns and it was obvious our instructor Marta Alto was extremely knowledgeable about sewing. By my calculations she’s been doing this professionally for nearly 50 years…although she doesn’t look nearly old enough for that.

Then she measured everyone’s high bust line and told us our starting size. Mine was one size smaller than I usually cut.  Then one by one she fitted us in bodices made of gingham. For each size there were bodices adjusted to cup sizes through DD.  On each person Marta pointed out where it fit and what adjustments needed to be made. It was particularly interesting because 4 people in the class were the same size but were totally different shapes and needed different adjustments.

My adjustment sheet from Marta

My adjustment sheet from Marta

I ended up being 2 sizes smaller than I would normally cut. My adjustments would be the high round, broad back, full bust, and waist. Marta said nearly everyone these days needs high round (yay computers!) and waist. The good news was she said my back was very flat. I guess my posture is better than I thought!

Our homework is to select a top, dress, or jacket pattern and prep it for tissue fitting next week. The only rule is it can’t have princess seams.  I dug through my patterns when I got home and picked the pink bow blouse from New Look 6808.

New Look 6808

New Look 6808

We are going to do 3 patterns plus a skirt so I need to start thinking of what else I want to make! I can’t wait to see how these turn out.

WIP Wednesday: Navy Pants

I’m nearly done with sewing these Simplicity 1696 pants, but I’m having fit issues with the rear rise. My favorite part so far is these slash pockets!

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I might not be done with sewing these pants but Magi seems to like them just fine.

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My Coco

The pattern is by Tilly & the Buttons and it’s called Coco. The digital version costs £7.50, which is about $12.50. On a side note, this is why my British friends love coming here to shop!

Anyway, I wasn’t that interested in making this shirt when the pattern first came out especially since it appeared to be £12.50, but that was for the printed pattern. Soon after getting another Boden catalog,  I realized I needed a Breton top, so I changed my mind and bought it.

My Polka Dot Coco

My Polka Dot Coco

I did a no-dart FBA and curved out the front side seams in the bust area to accommodate my DDDs.  Since I’ve never done a no-dart FBA before, I made a  test top using some leftover knit fabric to ensure this fit properly. I was very happy with the fit in the bust area. I also took the sleeves into make them more fitted.

My final garment was made using this fab black and white polka dot jersey I found at Mill End Fabrics. Since I was sure about the fit, I did the entire thing on my serger except for finishing the hems and neckline. I sewed those on my sewing machine using a double needle for a professional looking finish.

Overall I really like this pattern and I can see using it as a base pattern for my own variations. However I had a couple of problems with it. First and foremost is that the amount of fabric required is specified inaccurately in the Supplies section of the pattern. It says you need 2 1⁄4 yards x 60in wide,  but this is the amount you need to make a dress. You have to go to the layout page to see the amount needed just for a top (1 3/4 yds). And I think that is still inaccurate since I was able to make my larger sized top and still have over a yard leftover.  I think the pattern should at least specify in the supplies section where you need to look for proper fabric amounts.

My second issue is that the instructions tell you to do a lot of your hem and neckline finishes using zig zag stitch. Nothing screams homemade to me like zig zag. If you make this top I would definitely recommend using a double needle as it provides a great looking finishing seam that also stretches.  I wore this top today and and no one in my craft group had any idea it was homemade. That’s sounds like success to me!

The good news is about my extra polka dot fabric is I can pair it up with some to-be-purchased striped fabric and make one of these Boden Breton tops I love!

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I kept getting the stellastarr* song My Coco stuck in my head while making this top. Here it is for you to enjoy, too.

March Sister Challenge: Lorene

March was our first Sister Challenge. When Natalie and I came up the idea for this blog, I thought it would be fun to do some sort of month challenge where we both make something using the same pattern, fabric, theme, etc.  SInce we live 2800 miles apart, it would be interesting to see what we come up with when we have no idea what the other person is doing!

For this first challenge I bought 3 fat quarters of St Patrick’s Day fabric from Fabric Depot. I sent it to Natalie with the challenge to make something awesome by March 17.

My inspiration for this challenge,  were the fabric decorations my mom used to make. She has them for Christmas, Thanksgiving, Halloween, Easter, Valentine’s Day…even my hometown Parsippany Day!  I think many were from fabric panels but I know she made some from scratch too.  I can’t really hang anything from my door,  so I decided to make a table topper.

Quilt Sketch

My original concept for my abstract clover mini quilt

I was rather time crunched making this quilt, as I had recently had surgery and then had a snowboarding trip. However I was determined to complete this on time! So as I was cutting my strips I realized that putting my stripes on the diagonal would be much more complex. I decided to simplify this by doing stripes that ran parallel to the edges instead.

Lorene's Modern 4 Leaf Clover Mini Quilt

Lorene’s Modern 4 Leaf Clover Mini Quilt

Other than the stripes, I wanted everything to be very random and freeform. So I just eyeballed it when I cut the angle slices off the stripe blocks. This formed the negative space between each clover leaf. When it came time to quilt I used my walking foot and put some randomly spaced lines radiating from the center of the quilt. This came together very quickly for me. I guess I’m getting better at quilting! My only hiccup was that I used metallic thread and my walking foot to finish my machine binding and it definitely didn’t turn out straight. Oh well!

The final quilt measured around 18″ x 18″ and I finished it right before work on St Patrick’s Day.  In addition to the 3 prints, I used gold and black Kona cottons.

I hope you enjoyed the March Sister Challenge! Be sure to check out Natalie’s awesome Boyle’s Law Mini Quilt!